Essays

Line, Color, Detail, Distinction, Individuality:
A. & L. Tirocchi, Providence Dressmakers

 

After her decision to offer ready-to-wear to her clients, Anna's business flourished. By 1927, customer billings were triple what they had been in 1923, rising from $22,706 to $62,221. In addition to selling ready-to-wear from New York, Anna also journeyed to Europe in 1924, 1926-27, 1931, and 1938 to select garments and accessories for her clients. These trips are documented in the business records, although more frequent travel was cited by Tirocchi family members in their interviews. The many invoices and papers from her trips in the 1920s paint a picture of her purchasing patterns. Anna visited many couture houses and saw a number of model shows, which were held daily in this period.(36) Business cards from Paris couturiers Lucile, Lucien Lelong, Jean Patou, Martial &Armand, Drecoll, and the fur salons of Philippe & Gaston and Chanel bear witness to her interest. Invoices also survive, revealing that she did not buy much directly from the couturiers and that her purpose may have been largely to seek inspiration. On her 1924 trip, Anna purchased four dresses and a coat from Lucile: two of the dresses and the coat were on sale. She purchased a gown, "Coquillage," and a coat, "Meduse," from Philippe &Gaston. While there are two invoices and a receipt for a deposit on dresses from Martial & Armand, it appears from a company letter that she did not return to pick them up.

Other invoices from her 1924 trip reveal that Anna spent most of her money buying accessories from Mayer Frères; laces and embroideries from H. Bequet Rabin, Helliot &Cherrier; and fabrics from E. Meyer, Rodier, and the department stores Galeries Lafayette and Magasins du Louvre. She also visited the shops of Ernest Levy and Bernard &Compagnie, buying a number of ready-made garments. From Levy she purchased five blouses and eighteen dresses, while from Bernard & Compagnie she bought seven knit garments. The merchandise she acquired during this trip to Paris characterizes the dual nature of the A. &L. Tirocchi shop at this time of transition to ready-mades. Anna continued to offer her clients custom-made clothing, so she purchased the necessary materials from some of the leading French houses. Meanwhile, her new interest in ready-to-wear and accessories led her to Ernest Levy and Bernard &Compagnie, along with the couture houses and Mayer Frères, where she purchased thirty-six handbags on sale. Anna used French-made garments and accessories to great advantage as she refocused her attention on ready-to-wear. There was a rush to her doors in April of 1924, shortly after her French goods must have arrived. Many of her best clients made purchases that month and brought their daughters, who also selected a number of ready-made garments. Six of the seven knits from Bernard sold and proved popular among the younger women. Hope Watson, Dorothy Newton Leech, Elizabeth Newton, and Maud Gardner, all second-generation clients, purchased knit ensembles called sport suits for casual wear [fig. 34].

Along with ready-to-wear, Anna expanded her business in other ways, offering a range of personal accessories and goods following the example set by the French couturiers. During the post-World War I period, the cachet of a designer's name was strong, and Paris couturiers like Poiret, Patou, and Chanel took advantage of their renown to begin marketing their own perfumes. By the 1920s, designers were also selling lingerie, hair ornaments, fans, handbags, and scarfs. At times, even household linens were available. Anna offered her clients the same. She recognized the convenience of one-stop shopping at department stores, and to retain her customers, she began in 1923 to offer linens, followed by a selection of handbags, scarves, and shawls that she brought back from France in early 1924. A few jewelry sales appear in the summer of 1924, and she continued to sell bags and scarves throughout 1924 and 1925. In 1926, she broadened her stock further, adding hats, boas, feathers, and a larger selection of jewelry [fig. 35].

 

 

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