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In the fall of 1923, Anna made a critical business decision and began to offer her clients a wide range of ready-made garments and accessories, while continuing to provide the traditional custom dressmaking services.(22) The vendor accounts show that her investment in ready-made goods increased substantially. Between 1922 and 1923, Anna's purchase of wholesale ready-made garments totaled thirteen dresses, two suits, one blouse, one sweater, and one negligee. In the spring of 1924, her investment jumped significantly when she returned from a trip to Paris with twenty-three dresses, seven knit sport suits, two coats, and five blouses. In addition, she purchased one hundred and fifty-eight dresses, two sweaters, a coat, and a wrap from American importers and manufacturers of ready-to-wear.(23) Most of Anna's early suppliers of ready-mades were merchants and importers from whom she had been purchasing many of her textiles, laces, and trims for some years: H. I. Gross Company, Inc.; Sidney J. Stern Company, Inc.; Harry Angelo Company; and Maginnis &Thomas Importers. These large firms were also feeling competitive pressure from the growing ready-to-wear industry and were attempting to adjust. From the biggest to the smallest businesses, all were redefining their roles as the world of fashion spun faster to keep up a twentieth-century pace. Wholesalers in the millinery trade went through a similar transition, first offering clients labor-saving innovations such as prefabricated shapes (similar to the panels and "robes" of the dressmaker's wholesaler) and gradually moving into the sale of ready-made hats.(24) The suppliers and manufacturers previously patronized by Anna and the new companies with whom she eventually established business relationships - among them the Misses Briganti, Traina Gowns, Inc., and Monte Sano and Pruzan - were instrumental in the development of upscale ready-to-wear, sometimes called "wholesale couture" or "middle-class fashion."(25) This level of ready-made manufacturing was suited to Anna's discriminating clientele. These importers and manufacturers placed more importance on stylish design for their garments, looking to Paris for inspiration, while fit was of less concern with the newly fashionable, looser, chemise dresses. Manufacturers could more easily produce such garments in standard sizes that would satisfy women accustomed to clothing made to their measurements. |
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