1.
Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870. New York; n.d., pp. 144, 218, 239, 269, 312, 324, and 348.

2.
Ibid., pp. 205-06, 312, and 324-25.

3.
Ibid., p. 348.

4.
Pamela Parmal, "Welcome Arnold and Textiles."Paper presented at the Dublin Seminar, Deerfield, Massachusetts, June 28, 1997.

5.
See Susan Hay, "Adolphe Braun and Textile Design,"in Maureen O'Brien and Mary Bergstein, eds., Image and Enterprise: The Photographs of Adolphe Braun. Providence and London: 1999, pp. 44-65. For an account of Lyon designers, see Florence Charpigny, "Between Tradition and Modernity: Textile Design Education in Lyons at the Beginning of the 20th Century."Paper presented at the Textile Society of America Symposium, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, September 26, 1998; typescript courtesy of the author.

6.
See Yvonne Brunhammer and Suzanne Tise, The Decorative Arts in France: La Société des Artistes Décorateurs, 1900-1942. New York: 1990, pp. 12-14.

7.
Quoted from the Vienna Trade Register entry of May 12, 1903, in Werner J. Schweiger, Wiener Werkstätte: Design in Vienna, 1903-1932. New York: 1984, p. 27.

8.
Brunhammer and Tise, op. cit., pp. 269-84.

9.
Anne Stauffacher, "L'Évolution stylistique de la fleur dans l'industrie du textile. Un exemple: l'atelier Martine."Mémoire de maîtrise, Sorbonne, Université de Paris, n.d., p. 14; typescript in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.

10.
Anne Tourlonias and Jack Vidal, Raoul Dufy, l'oeuvre en soie: logique d'un oeuvre ornemental industriel. Avignon: 1998, p. 23.

11.
Dora Perez-Tibi, Dufy. New York: 1989, p. 57.

12.
Paul Poiret, En Habillant l'époque, Paris: 1930, p. 150.

13.
Quoted in Perez-Tibi, op. cit., p. 24.

14.
Ibid., p. 70.

15.
Pierre Vernus gives the history of this forward-looking company in his unpublished Thèse de doctorat d'histoire, entitled "Bianchini-Férier, fabricant de soieries à Lyon (1888-1973),"Université Lumière Lyon ii, 1997. Typescript courtesy of the author.

16.
Tourlonias and Vidal, op. cit., p. 27.

17.
Ibid., p. 42.

18.
Giuliano Ercoli, Art Deco Prints. New York: 1989, p. 11.

19.
Ibid., pp. 189-91.

20.
Charpigny, op. cit., n. 18.

21.
Invoice, F. Ducharne Silk Co. Inc., January 29, 1930; Tirocchi Archive.

22.
Colette, "Les Tissus de Rodier,"in Art et Industrie, (December 1926), pp. 51-53, translation by Susan Hay.

23.
The entry for "Textiles"in Encyclopédie des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes au XX siècle, en douze volumes, vol. xx. New York: 1997 (reprint), p. 9, is the source for the information contained in this paragraph and the following three.

24.
Ibid.

25.
Betty Kirke, Madeleine Vionnet. New York: 1998, p. 38.

26.
Interview with François Férier, Lyon, conducted by Susan Hay, December 1997.